We visited North Wales in the early autumn, 2025, for a few days travelling via Irish Ferries from Dublin to Holyhead.
Great fast ferry service via Irish Ferries from Dublin is less than 3 hours with SWIFT.
This was the first time to use that service via car and was a good experience, fast ferry over and slower one on return as seas were less calm.
Our first destination was just over the Menai Bridge of Anglesey to the famous Italian style village called Portmeirion, to stay in a restored castle, then afterwards we travelled near Caernarfon for a country house dining experience, then seaside resort of Llandudno.
Each place was a little different, weather was mixed like Ireland but not too bad in early September when the crowds are gone and kids are back at school.
The nice part is that the driving distances are not long but there are still many small roads like Ireland.
Portmeirion was a revelation – an architect and dreamer realised his ambition and next year is the 100th anniversary of the founding of the village after World War I.
It was built before Planning Acts were in place, they only were enacted in the 1950s. So founder Clough Williams Ellis could be more radical in design terms. Today it would be more difficult. Building styles could be mixed with old and new, but the general idea was to work with nature and the setting on a river estuary.
The lands were bought for as little as £5,000 sterling in the 1920s by Clough, who had a dream at the age of 23 years to have his own special village.
Mr. Clough Williams-Ellis, founder, was a vicar's son but full of creativity. He loved the movies and had inspiration too from the Americas and Italy to make this village, not far from Minfford station.
It was like a sleepy fishing village, a little like Woodstown or Passage, but then this man built it slowly adding houses as revenues came in and tourists enjoyed the place.
Classical and rural Italy with its variety of colours are part of the charm – it is modelled on Positano in Italy.
In the 1950s the area took off and more so in the swinging sixties and seventies and when rock and film stars came here
Noel Coward stayed here during the quiet war years and wrote plays, like "Blyth Spirit" in the fifties and sixties; they even had the Beatles, Brian Epstein, manager; George Harrison was a regular too, and his sons came here as well. Epstein came here in 1962 with the Beatles and good parties were held.
They had a big bash for the 50th birthday of Beatle George Harrison. Because it is a private village with a toll gate and entry fee, you must be a resident or pay for a day visit, often people rent houses or apartments.
There is a hotel in the village and the Castell Deudraeth Hotel where we stayed, they do great dinner and over night packages. We really liked the Welsh lamb and local beers.
A warm timber fire in reception welcomes you and staff are very friendly, great dining experience, quality fish and meats, great desserts too, you will not be disappointed.
Next day Meurig Jones, local guide took us on board a golf style buggy, to the village and told us how the founder Clough made the village his lifelong dream and succeeded and now the family have a not-for-profit foundation running the operation.
The village became famous form the Prisoner movie that was filmed here in the 1960s when colour TV came in and at a time when there were just two channels on British TV, BBC and ITV.
Vespa scooters were used which were very colourful with the Portofino image with rich Mediterranean colours.
Developer and architect Clough believed in optical illusions and false windows at times and multi-coloured houses.
He was clever in picking up old items of interest that would add a classical Italian touch.
One item was a colonnade from an old Bristol bath house and added a plaza in front of it. Sometimes brass bands play here in the summer on a stage.
Some say the whole area is a photographer's dream. The colour is amazing and you feel like you are in Italy.
Augustus John, the artist, also admired it, before he opted later for France.
Other movies made here for Hollywood were that of "Tangle Wood " and "Danger Man" was another production. Jerry Lee Lewis spent some time here too.
Founder Clough and family converted an old industrial foundry / metalworks building to a 14 bedroom hotel as part of his continual but tasteful expansion. The village also has peace statue near the Plaza.
He lived until 93 years and was still working beyond retirement age, during his life he was trying continually to make improvements. His ashes were fired off in a rocket on his death as a life celebration.
Meurig Jones, locations manager and village guide took us through the wild woodland walks where there are great sea views, worth getting the map. There are 70 acres in total for the whole area including streams and woodlands, many gardeners are involved. There is even a wishing tree, where money is put into a tree placed for some one that has an illness, or messages are left in memory.
The local BBC news pick up some of the stories around the village at times and makes it interesting from a public relations viewpoint
A botanist tenant farmer bought rare species in Asia, many years before and with the Gulf stream and micro-climate, they thrive here as not much heavy frost. The shelter of the estuary and hills reminds one of the Suir, where Waterford Castle also has a mild micro-climate. We enjoyed his chat, he visits Ireland regularly and likes conversation.
Down the village, we found a nice café for coffee and ice creams, plus a craft shop that is well stocked on books about Wales and the area. Well worth at least half a day here and worth the entry fee of £20 sterling and is open all year round.
There are group and family rates, rental house deals off peak season. Great place for a family reunion for example or big birthday bash with a rented house. Trains are possible to nearby Minffordd train station and then taxi transfer.
Castle Deudraeth at Portmeirion is a good story too from yore and the struggles people had in earlier times, great log fire to greet you and nice bar-restaurant.
So remember, 2026 is centenary year and worth a visit.
Continued in part two.
KIERAN WALSH
